Captain’s Jacket

If you dream of promenades by the sea waiting for summer to come, you will love knitting and wearing your very own Captain’s Jacket! This jacket mixes up elegant lines with comfortable details to make a versatile jacket perfect for everyday use. The A-line body makes it feminine and wearable while removable hood and pockets protect you from crisp breezes as you enjoy Sunday walks along the beach.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Finished Bust Size 30.75 (34, 38.75, 42.25, 46.25, 50.25, 54.25)” to fit bust 28.5 (32.5, 36.5, 40.5, 44.5, 48.5, 52.5)” Approx. 1.5-2” positive ease recommended at bust. Shown in size 34”

Gauge: 20 sts and 30 rows = 4” [10 cm] in stitch pattern after wet blocking

20 sts and 27 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking

Materials

Yarn: Garnstudio Drops Lima (65% Wool, 35% Alpaca; 109 yards [100 meters]/50 grams): 9016 Navy Blue (CC, 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) balls), 1101 White (MC, 5 (5, 5, 7, 8) balls)

Needles: US size 6 (4 mm) 24” / [60 cm] or longer circular for Body; US size 6 (4.5 mm) DPNs or 40” / [100 cm] circular for Sleeves; US size 4 (3.5 mm) 24” / [60 cm] or longer circular for folded hem cast on and bind off; US size 4 (3.5 mm) DPNs or 40” / [100 cm] circular for Sleeves folded hem bind off.

Notions: Removable markers, waste yarn, tapestry needle, 14 (14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 16) 1” buttons, 5 (+1 optional) 1” automatic buttons (metal snap fasteners).

Special Stitches

Stitch Pattern (worked flat over an even number of sts)

Row 1 (RS): K1, p to end.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Rep Rows 1-2 for patt.

Stitch Pattern (worked in the rnd over an even number of sts)

Rnd 1: K1, p to end.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Rep Rnds 1-2 for patt.

 

Pattern Notes

Nautical jacket is worked flat from the top down. After raglan yoke, body and sleeves are divided and body is worked flat. Pockets are worked simultaneously with the body bottom part. Two lines of buttons close the front (one true and one fake). Sleeves are worked in the round. Hood is worked separately and attached with snap fasteners.

Pattern

Note: Please read the whole instructions before starting.

After the collar, always slip first 3 sts of row, knitwise on RS and purlwise on WS.

When working increases, integrate the inc st in stitch pattern.

Collar

With CC yarn, Provisional CO Method, and smaller needles, CO 131 (131, 143, 149, 165, 169, 173) sts.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Row 3: Knit.

Row 4: Knit.

Rows 5-7: Rep Rows 1-3.

Row 8 (WS): Undo the Provisional CO and move sts to smaller DPN. Fold the fabric along the purled row on the RS. Carefully purl each st together with the corresponding st from CO row (now on DPN).

Yoke

Row 1 (RS): Sl3, work next 28 (28, 30, 30, 34, 34, 36) sts in Stitch Pattern, k2, pm, k1, p1, work next 12 (12, 14, 16, 18, 18, 18) sts in Stitch Pattern, k1, pm, k1, p1, work next 32 (32, 36, 38, 42, 46, 46) sts in Stitch Pattern, k1, pm, k1, p1, work next 12 (12, 14, 16, 18, 18, 18) sts in Stitch Pattern, k1, pm, k1, work next 28 (28, 30, 30, 34, 34, 36) sts in Stitch Pattern, k4.

Row 2 and every WS row: Purl, slip m when coming across them.

Note: For Sizes 30.75 (-, -, 42.25, – 50.25, -)” first button hole to be worked here (see below).

Sizes – (-, 38.75, 42.25, 46.25, 50.25, 54.25)” only

Next Row (RS): Sl3, work in Stitch Pattern to 2 sts before m, k1, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, *p1, work in Stitch Pattern to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L; rep from * twice more, work in Stitch Pattern to last 4 sts, k4. (8 sts inc’d; – (-, 151, 157, 173, 177, 181) sts)

Next Row (WS): Purl.

Note: For Sizes (, 38.75, , 46.25, , 54.25)” first button hole to be worked here (see below).

Next Row (RS): Sl3, work in Stitch Pattern to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, *work in Stitch Pattern to 2 sts before m, k2, sm, k1, m1L*, work in Stitch Pattern to 2 sts before m, k1, m1R, k1, sm, k1; rep from * twice more, p1, work in Stitch Pattern to last 4 sts, k4. (4 sts inc’d; – (-, 155, 161, 177, 181, 185) sts)

Next Row: Purl.

Rep last 4 rows once. (12 sts inc’d; – (-, 167, 173, 189, 193, 197) sts)

All Sizes

Next Row (RS): Sl3, work in Stitch Pattern to 2 sts before m, k1, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, *p1, work in Stitch Pattern to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L; rep from * twice more, work in Stitch Pattern to last 4 sts, k4. (8 sts inc’d; 139 (139, 175, 181, 197, 201, 205) sts)

Next Row (WS): Purl.

Next Row: Sl3, work in Stitch Pattern to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L *work in Stitch Pattern to 2 sts before m, k1, m1R, sm, k1, m1L; rep from * twice more, p1, work in Stitch Pattern to last 4 sts, k4. (8 sts inc’d; 147 (147, 183, 189, 205, 209, 213) sts)

Next Row: Purl.

Note: For Sizes (34, , , , , )” first button hole to be worked here (see below).

Rep last 4 rows 9 (9, 9, 11, 11, 14, 13) more times. (291 (291, 327, 365, 381, 433, 421) sts)

Sizes – (34, 38.75, 42.25, 46.25, 50.25, 54.25)” only

Next Row (RS): Sl3, work in Stitch Pattern to 2 sts before m, k1, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, *p1, work in Stitch Pattern to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L; rep from * twice more, work in Stitch Pattern to last 4 sts, k4. (8 sts inc’d; – (299, 335, 373, 389, 441, 429) sts)

Next Row (WS): Purl.

Next Row: Sl3, work in Stitch Pattern to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, *work in Stitch Pattern to 2 sts before m, k2, sm, k1, m1L*, work in Stitch Pattern to 2 sts before m, k1, m1R, k1, sm, k1; rep from * to *, p1, work in Stitch Pattern to last 4 sts, k4. (4 sts inc’d; – (303, 339, 377, 393, 445, 433) sts)

Next Row: Purl.

Rep last 4 rows – (1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 4) more times. (- (315, 351, 389, 417, 457, 481) sts)

AT THE SAME TIME, work a Buttonhole when asked for in instructions, and then every 22 (22, 24, 22, 22, 24, 24) rows, 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, as follows:

Buttonhole Row (WS): Sl3, p3, BO 3 sts purlwise, work the row as established to end.

Next Row (RS): Work as established to last 9 sts, CO 3 with backward loop method, work as established to end.

AT THE SAME TIME, change colors as follows:

Next Row (WS): Change to MC (do not cut CC yarn).

Work 4 rows as above.

Next Row (WS): Change to CC (do not cut MC yarn).

Work 4 rows as above.

Next Row (WS): Change to MC (cut CC yarn) and work as above. (291 (315, 351, 389, 417, 457, 481) total sts; 53 (57, 63, 67, 73, 77, 83) sts each Front; 75 (83, 95, 105, 113, 125, 133) sts for Back; 55 (59, 65, 75, 79, 89, 91) sts for each Sleeve)

Division of Body and Sleeves

Division Row (RS): Work as established to first Sleeve m, *rm, move following 55 (59, 65, 75, 79, 89, 91) sts to waste yarn the, rm, CO 1 st with backward loop method, pm, CO 1 st, work in patt to m; rep from * once more, rm, work as established to the end. (185 (201, 225, 243, 263, 283, 303) sts total; 54 (58, 64, 68, 74, 78, 84) for each Front; 77 (85, 97, 107, 115, 127, 135) for Back)

Body

Note: Continue to work buttonholes when needed.

Row 1: Purl.

Row 2 (RS): Sl3, *work in Stitch Pattern to 1 st before m, k1, sm, k1, p1*; rep from * to *, work in Stitch Pattern to last 4 sts, k4.

Rep Rows 1-2, 6 more times.

Rep Row 1 once.

Row 18 (Inc): *Work as established to 1 st before m, m1R, K1, sm, K1, m1R; rep from * once more, work as established to end. (4 sts inc’d; 189 (205, 229, 247, 267, 287, 307) sts)

Rep Rows 1-2, 7 more times.

Rep Row 1 once more.

Rep Inc Row once. (193 (209, 233, 251, 271, 291, 311) sts)

Rep Rows 1-2, 7 more times.

Start working Right Pocket Front Panel (remember to work Buttonhole when needed):

Next Row (WS): Change to CC (do not cut the yarn), work as established the first 25 sts of row, pm, work as established 28 sts, pm, sl back last st, CO 2 sts with backward loop method.

Next Row (RS): Sl3, work as established to end.

Next Row: Work as established to last 3 sts, sl3.

Next Row: Sl3, work as established to end.

Change to MC (do not cut the yarn), work 4 rows as established.

Change to CC (cut the yarn) and work 46 rows as established.

Cut the yarn, move sts to scrap yarn.

Work Left Pocket Front Panel the same mirrored way:

Move sts to scrap yarn up to last 53 sts of row.

Next Row (WS): With CC and the Knitted Cast-On Method, CO 2 sts, work as established 28 sts, pm, work as established to end.

Next Row (RS): Sl3, work as established to end, k3.

Next Row (WS): Sl3, work as established to end.

Next Row (RS): Sl3, work as established to end, k3.

Change to MC (do not cut the yarn), work 4 rows as established.

Change to CC (cut the yarn) and work 46 rows as established.

Cut the yarn, move sts to scrap yarn.

Work Back Pocket Panels and Back of Body simultaneously:

Next Row (WS): With WS facing and CC, pick up and purl last 28 sts of Right Front Panel (starting from m) from 54 rows below (corresponding to the upper edge of Right Pocket Front Panel), move back sts from scrap yarn to working needle, purl to last 53 sts, pick up and purl 28 sts (up to m) from 54 rows below (corresponding to the upper edge of Left Pocket Front Panel).

Inc Row (RS): K28, *work as established to 1 st, before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, k1; rep from *, work as established to last 28 sts, k28. (4 sts inc’d; 147 (163, 187, 205, 225, 245, 265) sts)

Next Row (WS): Purl

Next Row: K28, *work as established to last 28 sts, k28.

Next Row: P28, change to MC (do not cut the yarn), work as established to last 28 sts, change to CC, p28.

Work 4 rows as established.

Next Row: Change to CC (cut the yarn), work as established to end.

Work 7 more rows as established.

Next Row: Rep Inc Row once. (4 sts inc’d; 151 (167, 191, 209, 229, 249, 269) sts)

Work 29 rows as established.

Next Row (WS): Move Right Front Panel sts to DPN. Work as established first 25 sts, purl following 28 sts together with first 28 sts on left needle (Pocket Back Panel), BO 1 st, purl the following st together with corresponding st on working needle, work as established to last 54 sts. Move Left Front Panel sts to DPN, BO 1 st, purl the following st together with corresponding st on working needle, purl following 28 sts together with first 28 sts on DPN (Pocket Front Panel), work as established to end.

Work 4 rows as established.

Work folded hem as follows:

Change to smaller needles.

Work 4 rows in St st, purl one row (RS), work 3 rows in St st.

Next Row (RS): With DPN, pick up sts 8 rows below (along the edge between textured fabrics and one St st). Fold the fabric along the RS purled row, carefully knit and BO each st together with the corresponding st on DPN.

Cut yarn.

Sleeves

Move 55 (59, 65, 75, 79, 89, 91) sts from waste yarn to the working needles, pick up 1 st from underarm, place marker for beg of rnd, pick up 1 more st, join in the rnd. (57 (61, 67, 77, 81, 91, 93) sts)

Rnd 1: K1, work in established patt to last st before m, k1.

Rep Rnd 1, 9 more times.

Dec Rnd 1: K1, k2tog, work in established patt to 3 sts before m, sm, ssk, k1. (2 sts dec’d; 55 (59, 65, 75, 79, 89, 91) sts)

Rep Rnd 1, 9 more times.

Dec Rnd 2: K1, p2tog, work in established patt to 3 sts before m, sm, ssp, k1. (2 sts dec’d; 53 (57, 63, 73, 77, 87, 89) sts)

While working in established patt, rep from Rnd 1, 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) more times. (49 (53, 55, 65, 69, 79, 81) sts)

AT THE SAME TIME, when Sleeve meas approx. 8.5 (9, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10, 10)” / [21.5 (22.75, 24, 24, 25.4, 25.4) cm] from underarm.

Change to CC and work 4 rounds.

Change to MC and work 4 rounds.

Cut the MC yarn, change to CC and work 10 rounds.

Work the folded hem as follows:

Knit 4 rnds, purl 1 rnd, knit 3 rnds.

Purl the fabric inside out and with DPN pick up sts 8 rnds below (along the edge between textured fabric and one St st). Fold the fabric along the RS purled rnd, carefully knit and BO each st together with the corresponding st DPN.

Hood

Note: Remember to always slip first 3 sts of row, kintwise on RS and purlwise on WS.

With long tail cast-on method, CO 85 (85, 93, 99, 107, 115, 121) sts, place markers before and after the middle st.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Rep Rows 1-2 twice more.

Inc Row (RS): Knit to m, m1R, sm, k1, sm, m1L, k to end. (2 sts inc’d; 87 (87, 95, 101, 109, 117, 123) sts)

While working in St st, rep Inc Row 4 more times every 6 rows. (8 sts inc’d; 95 (95, 103, 109, 117, 125, 131) sts)

Work in St st until the piece meas approx. 15.75” / [40 cm] or desired length.

Fold the piece fabric along the middle st, graft with Kitchener grafting method. Pass the yarn into the last sts and weave in end.

Finishing

Pockets

Seam Back and Front Panels of Pockets.

To help you, mark WS Front Panel edge passing scrap yarn in sts along the border before seaming.

Buttons

Sew on buttons on Left Front Panel along the buttonholes line and on the Right Front Panel, along a line approx. 3.5” / [9 cm] from the buttonholes line to create a fake button line.

Sew 5 automatic buttons on Hood external bottom border at even distance and on the inner face of jacket collar to allow hood attachment.

If needed, sew a snap fastener in the inner face of Front Panel to help the left panel stay in place.

Weave in ends.

Block the cardigan without stretching the fabric.

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