Frozen Roses Socks

This design was created with this beautiful tonal yarn of the soft shades of a gentle rose. The stitch pattern has a rosebud floral feel, framed with rows reminiscent of stems with thorns.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Small (Medium, Large), approximately 6¾ (7¾, 8¾)” foot and ankle circumference. The leg height and foot length of all sizes are adjustable to fit and preference.

Shown in size Medium.

Gauge: 36 sts and 44 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st, blocked.

Materials

Yarn:

Super Fine Weight Yarn Blue Moon Fiber Art Socks That Rock Lightweight (100% Merino; 405 yards [370 meters/146 grams): China Rose, 1 skein.

Needles: US size 1.5 (2.5 mm): circular or DPNs, or size required to obtain gauge.

Notions: Stitch marker (optional); tapestry needle.

Abbreviations

co= cast on

bo= bind off

st(s)= stitch(es)                          

sl= slip
pm= place marker
lhn- left hand needle
rhn= right hand needle
sl1= slip 1 stitch purl-wise
wyif= with yarn in front
k= knit                                 
p= purl
ktbl= knit through the back loop
kfb= knit into the front of the stitch and then into the back of the stitch
k2tog= knit 2 sts together
ssk= slip two stitches as if to knit, one at a time, k2tog through the back loop
p2tog= purl 2 sts together
cdd= centered double decrease = slip two stitches together as if to knit, k1, pass the two slipped stitches over the k1 stitch

Special Stitches

The written instructions are for the first half of the stitches. For foot and leg in St st, work round instructions followed by k28 (32, 36). If you wish to have the pattern on the front and back of the leg, working round instructions twice.

Chart Pattern

Rnd 1: P1 (2, 3), yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p3 (4, 5), k3, p3, k3, p3 (4, 5), yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p2 (3, 4).

Rnd 2: P1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p3 (4, 5), k3, yo, cdd, yo, k3, p3 (4, 5), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 3: P1 (2, 3), k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p3 (4, 5), k9, p3 (4, 5), k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 4: P1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p3 (4, 5), k1, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, p3 (4, 5), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 5: P1 (2, 3), yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p3 (4, 5), k9, p3 (4, 5), yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 6: P1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p3 (4, 5), k3, yo, cdd, yo, k3, p3 (4, 5), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 7: P1 (2, 3), k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p3 (4, 5), k9, p3 (4, 5), k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 8: P1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p3 (4, 5), k1, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, p3 (4, 5), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 9: P1 (2, 3), yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p3 (4, 5), k9, p3 (4, 5), yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 10: P1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p3 (4, 5), k3, yo, cdd, yo, k3, p3 (4, 5), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 11: P1 (2, 3), k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p3 (4, 5), k3, p3, k3, p3 (4, 5), k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 12: P1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p1 (2, 3), ssk, yo, k3, p3, k3, yo, k2tog, p1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 13: P1 (2, 3), yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p2 (3, 4), k4, p3, k4, p2 (3, 4), yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 14: P1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, p3, k1, ssk, yo, k1, p2 (3, 4), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 15: P1 (2, 3), k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p2 (3, 4), k4, p3, k4, p3 (4, 5), k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 16: P1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p1 (2, 3), ssk, yo, k3, p3, k3, yo, ssk, p1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 17: P1 (2, 3), yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p2 (3, 4), k4, p3, k4, p2 (3, 4), yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 18: P1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, p3, k1, ssk, yo, k1, p2 (3, 4), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 19: P1 (2, 3), k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p2 (3, 4), k4, p3, k4, p2 (3, 4), yo, k2tog, p1 (2, 3), k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p2 (3, 4).
Rnd 20: P1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p1 (2, 3), ssk, yo, k3, p3, k3, yo, k2tog, p1 (2, 3), k2, p1, k2, p2 (3, 4).

Rep Rnds 1-20 for pattern.

Pattern Notes

When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. The pattern is written for DPNs referring to Needles 1-4.

You can accommodate it for Magic Loop or 2 circulars by in the beginning using the front for Needles 1 and 2 and the back for Needles 3 and 4.

Pattern

Toe

Using a toe up cast on (I prefer Judy’s Magic Cast-on), CO 28 (32, 36) sts, divide sts evenly on the needles. Place a stitch marker to note the beginning of the round.

If using DPNs, you may need to rearrange stitches from needle to needle from time to time to accommodate the stitch pattern. (Note: Needles 1 and 2 are the top of the toe stitches. Needles 3 and 4 are the bottom of the toe stitches.)

Next Rnd: Knit across the sts on each needle.

Rnd 1: Needle 1: Kfb, k to end of needle.
Needle 2: K to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Needle 3: Kfb, k to end of needle.
Needle 4: K to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.

Rnd 2: K across the sts on each needle.

Rep Rnds 1-2 until you have a total of 56 (64, 72) sts.

If you prefer a more pointed toe, CO fewer sts and then work more rnds until you have increased to 56 (64, 72) sts.

If you prefer a different toe, by all means, work your toe of preference until you have the desired number of sts.

Foot

Once you have reached 56 (64, 72) sts, you will begin working the foot.

Needles 1 and 2 will be the top of the Foot (working the stitch pattern) and Needles 3 and 4 will become the Sole (working in St st).

Begin working from the charts or from the written instructions, repeating Rnds 1-20.

Continue working in pattern until Foot measures 2½” shorter (LESS) than the entire length of your foot.

Gusset

In this section, Needles 1 and 2 will continue the sock in pattern and continue working up the Foot towards the front of the leg.

Needles 3 and 4 will be increasing and forming the instep gusset on the sole of the foot working towards the heel of the sock.

Rnd 1: Needles 1 and 2: Continue working the next row in pattern.

Needle 3: Kfb, k to end of needle.
Needle 4: K to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.

Rnd 2: Needles 1 and 2: Continue working in pattern.

Needles 3 and 4: K all sts.

Rep these 2 rnds until you have a total of 48 (56, 64) sts on Needles 3 and 4.

Turning the Heel

Once you have reached 48 (56, 64) sts, you will begin turning the heel.

Work over Needles 1 and 2 once more, they will hold the top sts.

Continue working back and forth over Needles 3 and 4, turning the heel.

Note: Make special note of the last rnd you worked in pattern as you will continue working that same round once the heel has been turned.

Row 1 (RS): K27 (31, 35), ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, k to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, p to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.

Rep Rows 3-4 until you have a total of 28 (32, 36) sts rem on Needles 3 and 4.

Leg

Resume working on all 4 needles, paying careful attention to working the rest of the same row in pattern where you left off to turn the heel.

The sample is shown with the pattern on both the front and the back of the sock. You can make this sock as simple or as detailed as you would like.

If you wish to keep the back of the leg in St st, keep working the pattern as you were.

If you wish to have the stitch pattern on the back of the sock that is on the front of the sock, start working the back of the sock, repeating the same round worked over Needles 1 and 2 before working the gusset and then after that, working the stitch pattern twice.

Either way you choose to do the leg, you may need to pick up a stitch on either side to close up any holes there may be, remembering to k2tog or ssk with an end stitch to maintain the correct stitch count.

Work Leg until meas 1½-2” less than the entire desired length of the sock.

Cuff (Ribbing)

Knit one round, then start ribbing.

Small: (K1tbl, p1) 28 times around.

Medium: (K1tbl, p1) 32 times around.

Large: (K1tbl, p1) 36 times around.

Rep Cuff Ribbing for 1½-2”.

BO all sts in pattern, using a stretchy bind-off.

Make second sock the same as the first.

Finishing

Weave in all ends.yarn ball

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