Lined with fabric of your choosing, paired with gold chain from the craft store, this clutch is a rewarding little piece. What better way to use up that special little skein on a quiet weekend than by making a little clutch to take to work on Monday?
Skill Level: Easy
Size: 12″ wide x 7″ tall, assembled
Gauge: 14 sts and 20 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st before blocking.
Brooklyn Tweed Quarry (100% Wool: 200 yards [183 meters]/100 grams): Sulphur, 1 skein.
Needles: US size 10½ (6.5 mm): metal 24” circular with a rounded tip
Notions: Tapestry needle; stitch markers (two); point protectors; fat square of fabric; 2/3-yard fusible webbing interface such as Pellon Wonder-web 807; 1/3-yard fusible batting such as Pellon 987F; 4′ length of chain (or double pieces as shown using Blue Moon Beads 42″ MTL C GLD); sewing needle; straight pins; sewing thread in coordinated color; 1″ snap; pressing cloth
When slipping a stitch, slip as if to purl.
Brooklyn Quarry will felt or break if not handled with care, be gentle when working with and blocking it.
(multiple 4 sts + 3 + edge sts)
Row 1: Work edge st, k1, *sl1, k1; rep from *, work edge st.
Row 2: Work edge st, p1, *sl1, p3; rep from *, sl1, p1, work edge st.
Row 3: Work edge st, k1, *sl1, k1; rep from *, work edge st.
Row 4: Knit all sts.
CO 49 sts, place markers 1 st in from each edge
Row 1: Sl1, SM, k1, *sl1, k1; rep from * to marker, SM, k1tbl.
Row 2: Sl1, SM, p1, *sl1, p3; rep from * to 2 sts before marker, sl1, p1, SM, k1tbl.
Row 3: Sl1, SM, k1, *sl1, k1; rep from * to marker, SM, k1tbl.
Row 4: Sl1, SM, knit to marker, SM, k1tbl.
Rep Rows 1-4, 23 more times, ending on Row 3.
Dec Row: Remove markers, k2tog, knit across row to last 2 sts, k2tog – 47 sts.
Replace markers 1 st in from each edge.
Row 1: Sl1, SM, *sl1, k1; rep from * to 1 st before marker, sl1, SM, k1tbl.
Row 2: Sl1, SM, *sl1, p3; rep from * to 1 st before marker, sl1, SM, k1tbl.
Row 3: Sl1, SM, *sl1, k1; rep from * to 1 st before marker, sl1, SM, k1tbl.
Row 4: Sl1, SM, knit to marker, SM, k1tbl.
Rep Rows 1-4, 6 more times.
Rep Rows 1-3 once more.
BO Row: K1, *pass stitch back to left needle, k2tog; rep from * to end of row.
The finished size at this point will be approximately 15½” x 11¼”.
Blocking is accomplished by resting the fabric in a sink of warm water, 110 degrees F. There may be some color loss depending upon the temperature of the water and yarn color. Add 1 cup white vinegar if there is any color loss. When the piece sinks into the basin allow it to sit for approximately 20 minutes; do not agitate the water.
If vinegar was used, rinse the fabric.
Remove piece from the sink and place between two bath towels. Beginning at one edge, roll the three layers and squeeze the rolled up set of three layers to release some of the water. Unroll, place piece on a dry towel.
Using a flat hand, gently push the edges out to form for right angles for the four outer corners and two inside corners for the flap, the latter two will be only one stitch in width to accommodate the handle when it is attached, these two need not be perfect 90 degree angles.
Clutch will stretch to approximately 19″ x 12″. Allow clutch to dry overnight or until dry.
Making up the clutch
The clutch will be formed by folding the fabric into three sections, the smallest of which is the flap as denoted by the k2tog on each end of the Dec Row.
Cut the fabric fat square to a rectangle the same size as the clutch’s finished dimension at its narrowest point. Since the flap is narrower than the body of the clutch, the width of the flap is the width you will use when cutting the fabric.
Cut the fusible batting 1” smaller than the fabric.
Cut the fusible interface webbing the same size as the fusible batting, make two.
Place fusible interface webbing on the wrong side of the cotton lining fabric, follow manufacturer’s directions to adhere the interfacing to the back of the cotton lining. Allow this to cool.
Place the fusible batting on the interfacing side of the cotton lining fabric. Iron together per directions on the batting. Allow this section to cool before working with it again.
Using the grid pattern created by the slip stitches, center snap on right side of the piece and tie in place with some scrap thread or yarn centered at a placement of 2¼” from the edge opposite the flap, the part which will be under the flap when the clutch is closed, centered about 5½” from the longest sides of the rectangle.
Sew snap to the right side of the clutch.
Temporarily pin the lining to the clutch.
Fold the clutch so the flap overhangs the half of the snap you just attached.
Mark location of the second half of the snap on the lining with a piece of chalk.
Using a coordinated thread, sew snap to the lining to match up to where it will engage on the clutch.
Cut ¼” strips of the fusible webbing interface from the left over bits or edges of the remaining piece of interface.
Gently fold over the back of the cotton lining onto the batting side placing a bit of the webbing between the two layers as you proceed to iron along each edge. Iron per instructions taking care not to get the iron in direct contact with the batting. Allow to cool.
Using the remaining piece of interface, fuse the interface to the batting side of the cotton lining fabric.
Beginning in the upper right corner of the flap on the inside of the clutch, pin the lining into place on the wrong side of the clutch, taking care to maintain the alignment of the snap and the distance between the lining and the edge of the clutch.
Fuse the lining to the clutch, allow to cool, remove pins and carefully iron one more time.
Using an invisible stitch or ladder stitch, sew around the edges of the lining fabric to join it to the clutch. As you sew, pass the needle through the edge of the lining and the inside surface of the piece so the stitches do not show.
Fold the clutch approximately into thirds, the smallest of which being defined by the flap.
Secure the snap to help hold the work in place.
Pin and sew the inner side seams, creating an inner seam near the edge of the fabric catching the fabric and the wrong side of the clutch with each stitch.
Sew an outer seam along the edge of the clutch outer layer just inside the first stitch so the seam does not show.
Attach the chain to the clutch in the chamber created by the two seams. By placing the chain here and sewing across between the two seams the chain becomes a part of the clutch and will not snag on your coat. This also eliminates the bulk of using a mechanical metal fastener to attach the chain to the clutch and allows for you to change the chain easily.