The Ski Lift Socks take their name and inspiration from a favorite winter past time: skiing. This intermediate sock can be knit using four double-pointed needles or two circular needles. With three size options in the pattern, these socks make for a great Christmas present.
Skill Level: Intermediate
Size: Small (Medium, Large) = Approximate circumferences around the foot and ankle 6.75 (7.75, 8.75) inches, unstretched
Gauge: 9 stitches x 11 rows = 1 inch in stockinette, measured flat, unblocked
Blue Moon Fiber Art Socks That Rock Lightweight (100% superwash merino; 405 yards [370 meters]/146 grams): Blue for Ewe (1 skein, for all sizes)
Needles: US size 1.5 (2.5 mm) needles or size required to obtain gauge
Notions: 1 stitch marker (optional), cable needle, tapestry needle
RT (Right Twist): Knit two sts together, leave the 2 sts on the lhn. Insert the rhn between the two sts and knit into the first st again. Slip both sts off the lhn.
LT (Left Twist): Place the rhn behind your work, skip the first st on the lhn. Knit the second st tbl. Leave sts on the lhn, insert the rhn into the backs of the skipped st and the ktbl st and k2tog tbl.
FC: Slip 3 sts to cn, hold in front, k3 sts, k3 from cn.
BC: Slip 3 sts to cn, hold in back, k3 sts, k3 from cn.
The pattern is written for DPNs referring to Needles 1-4. You can accommodate it for Magic Loop or 2 circulars. It has a gusset and a heel turn.
Using a toe up cast on, (I prefer Judy’s Magic cast-on.), cast on a total of 28 (32, 36) stitches. Divide stitches evenly on the needles. If using DPNs, you may need to move stitches from needle to needle from time to time to accommodate the stitch pattern. Place a stitch marker to note the beginning of the round. (Note: Needles 1 and 2 are the top of the toe stitches. Needles 3 and 4 are the bottom of the toe stitches.)
Knit across the stitches on each needle.
Needle 1: Kfb, knit until end of needle.
Needle 2: Knit until 2 stitches, kfb, k1.
Needle 3: Kfb, knit to end of needle.
Needle 4: Knit until 2 stitches, kfb, k1.
Rnd 2: Knit across the stitches on each needle.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until you have a total of 56 (64, 72) stiches. If you prefer a more pointed toe, cast on fewer stitches and then work more rounds until you have increased to 56 (64, 72) stiches. If you prefer a different toe, by all means, work your toe of preference until you have the desired amount of stitches.
Once you have reached 56 (64, 72) stiches, you will begin working the foot. Needles 1 and 2 will be the top of the foot will become the instep (working the lace pattern) and Needles 3 and 4 will become the sole stitches (working in stockinette). Begin working from the charts or from the written instructions. If using charts, work the pattern over the first 28 (32, 36) sts and K28 (32, 36).
Continue knitting the foot until your work measures 2.5 inches shorter (LESS) than the entire length of your foot.
Creating the Gusset
In this section Needles 1 and 2 will continue the sock in pattern and continue working up the foot and towards the front of the leg. Needles 3 and 4 will be increasing and forming the instep gusset on the sole part of the foot working towards the heel of the sock.
Needles 1 and 2: Continue working the next row in pattern.
Needle 3: Kfb, knit to end of needle.
Needle 4: Knit until 2 stitches remain, kfb, k1.
Needles 1 and 2: Continue working in pattern.
Needles 3 and 4: Knit all stitches.
Repeat these two rounds until you have a total of 48 (56, 64) stitches on Needles 3 and 4.
Turning the Heel
Once you have reached 48 (56, 64) stitches, you will begin turning the heel. At this time, you should work over Needles 1 and 2 one more time, they will hold you the top stitches while you continue working back and forth over Needles 3 and 4 turning the heel.
Make special of note the last Round you worked in pattern, as you will continue working that same round once the heel has been turned.
Row 1 (RS): K27 (31, 35), ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, Knit until one stitch before the gap, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, Purl until one stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat these rows 3 and 4 until you have a total of 28(32, 36) stitches remaining on Needles 3 and 4.
Resume working on all 4 needles, paying careful attention as to working the rest of the row in pattern where you left off to turn the heel. You can make this sock as simple or as detailed as you would like.
If you wish to keep the back of the leg stockinette, keep working the pattern as you were.
If you wish to have the same pattern on the back of the sock that is on the front of the sock, start working the back of the sock repeating the same row that you knit over Needles 1 and 2 before working the gusset.
Either way you choose to do the leg, you may need to pick up a stitch on either side to close up any holes there may be, remembering to K2tog or SSK with an end stitch to maintain the correct stitch count. Continue working in pattern for the first 28(32, 36) and then either stockinette, or pattern of your choice, over the second the next 28 (32, 36) stitches.
If working a larger size, you may need to repeat the pattern, starting on Round 1, until you have reached your desired length.
Work leg until 1½-2 inches less than the entire desired length of the sock.
KNIT ONE ROUND, then start ribbing.
Small: [k1, p1]x28.
Medium: [k1, p1]x32.
Large: [k1, p1]x34.
Repeat cuff pattern for 1½-2 inches, or until desired length. Bind off all stitches in pattern using a stretchy bind-off.
Knit Sock 2. Enjoy!
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