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Folklore Blouse

Folklore is a feminine blouse inspired by the embroidered peasant tops that have been popular through the ages. Knit bottom up in pieces and then sewn together, the sleeves are decorated with stranded colorwork of stitch patterns adopted from traditional embroidery folk patterns. Each pattern is in a different color to create an interesting contrast that’s sure to get attention.

Time: 60 Hour Project

Skill level: Intermediate

Size: Finished Bust Size 43.40 (47.60, 51.60, 55.60, 59.80)” to fit bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)”

10.80″ positive ease recommended.

Shown in size 47.60″

Gauge:

22 sts and 28 rows = 4″ [10 cm] in St st

25 sts and 28 rows = 4″ [10 cm] in stranded colorwork, after wet blocking,

 

Materials

Yarn:

Scheepjes Catona (100% Mercerized cotton; 136 yards [125 meters]/50 grams): #164 Light Navy (MC, 11 (12, 12, 13, 14) balls), #179 Topaz (CC1, 1 ball), #128 Tyrian Purple (CC2, 1 ball), #212 Sage Green (CC3, 1 ball), #130 Old Lace (CC4, 1 ball), #413 Cherry (CC5, 1 ball)

Needles: US size 4 (3.5 mm) 32″ [80 cm] circular needles

Notions: Tapestry needle, locking stitch markers

Downloads:

Abbreviations

KRL: Insert the right needle from back to front into the right side of the next st on left needle one row below, place this stitch on the left needle, and knit this new st. (1 st increased)

MPLL: Slip the next st to right needle, insert the left needle from bottom up through the head of the purl st just below the needle, place this stitch on the right needle, and purl this new st. (1 st increased)

Special Stitches

Shadow-Wrap Short-Rows

There are many methods of knitting short-rows, but the Shadow Wrap is by far my favorite. It is easy to work and almost invisible.

On RS: Knit to where you are instructed to turn a short-row. Before you turn, work a KRL into the next stitch on left needle. Pass that new stitch back to the left needle so it sits next to its “shadow”. Mark these 2 sts with a locking stitch marker. Turn work and purl back.

On WS: Purl as instructed in pattern to prepare to turn a short-row. Before you turn, work a MPLL into the next stitch on your left needle. Slip the “shadow” stitches together back to the left needle and mark them with a locking stitch marker. Turn your work and knit back.

Double Selvage stitch (DS)

Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyib, k1, work in given stitch pattern to last 2 sts, sl1 wyib, p1.

Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyib, p1, work in given stitch pattern to last 2 sts, sl 1 wyif, p1.

Rep these 2 rows.

Stranded colorwork pattern

Work according to chart. Work as many repeats as possible across the stitches in the chosen size. The chart is worked using the stranded method. Always pick up the background color over the pattern color and pick up the pattern color from under the background color. Keep floats loose. For floats longer than four stitches, tack stranded yarn on wrong side of work.

Pattern Notes

The back, front and sleeves are worked flat from the bottom up and shaping for neck and sleeve slope is done with short-rows. At the end, stitches of all pieces are returned onto needles and the eyelet edge is worked.

Pattern

Back

With MC, CO 128 (140, 150, 162, 172) sts.

Knit 2 rows

Cont in St st for 28 rows.

Dec Row (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Rep Dec Row every 28th row 3 more times. (120 (132, 142, 154, 164) sts rem)

Cont even until piece measures 17.50″, finishing with a WS row.

Shape armhole:

BO 3 (6, 7, 9, 11 sts at the beg of next 2 rows, 3 sts at the beg of following 2 rows, 2 sts at the beg of following 2 rows. (104 (110, 118, 126, 132) sts rem)

Dec Row (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Rep Dec Row every RS row 20 (19, 20, 20, 20) more times. (62 (70, 76, 84, 90) sts rem)

Size 43.4” Only:

Work one WS row.

Shape neck:

Short-row 1 (RS): K22, KRL, turn.

Short-row 2 (WS): Work to end.

Short-row 3 (RS): K11, KRL, turn.

Short-row 4 (WS): Work to end.

Short-row 5 (RS): K to end of row, knitting tog the “shadow” sts.

Short-row 6 (WS): P22, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 7 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 8 (WS): P11, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 9 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 10 (WS): P to end of row, purling tog the “shadow” sts.

Place sts on holder.

Sizes 47.6 (51.6, 55.6, 59.8)” Only:

Work 5 (5, 7, 9) rows even.

Shape neck:

Short-row 1 (RS): K25 (26, 28, 29), KRL, turn.

Short-row 2 (WS): Work to end.

Short-row 3 (RS): K12 (14,14, 14), KRL, turn.

Short-row 4 (WS): Work to end.

Short-row 5 (RS): K to end of row, knitting tog the “shadow” sts.

Short-row 6 (WS): P25 (26, 28, 29), MPLL, turn.

Short-row 7 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 8 (WS): P12 (14, 14, 14), MPLL, turn.

Short-row 9 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 10 (WS): P to end of row, purling tog the “shadow” sts.

Place sts on holder.

Front

Work as for Back through armhole shaping. (104 (110, 118, 126, 132) sts rem)

Split front in two halves and cont working each side separately. (52 (55, 59, 63, 66) sts each side)

Left Front

Dec Row (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 2 sts, DS. (1 st decreased)

Next Row (WS): DS, work to end.

Rep last 2 rows 13 more times. (38 (41, 45, 49, 52) sts rem)

Cont decreasing for armhole shaping and shape neck with short-rows as follows:

Shape neck:

Size 43.4” Only:

Short-row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 2 & following WS rows: Work to end.

Short-row 3 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 5 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 7 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 9 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 11 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 13 (RS): K1, ssk, work to end of row, knitting tog the “shadow” sts. (31 sts rem)

Work 1 WS row.

Place sts on holder.

Size 47.6” Only:

Short-row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 2 & following WS rows: Work to end.

Short-row 3 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 5 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 7 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 9 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 11 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 13 (RS): K to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 15 (RS): K to end of row, knitting tog the “shadow” sts. (35 sts rem)

Work 1 WS row.

Place sts on holder.

Size 51.6” Only:

Short-row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 2 & following WS rows: Work to end.

Short-row 3 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 5 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 7 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 9 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 11 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 13 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 15 (RS): Work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 17 (RS): K to end of row, knitting tog the “shadow” sts. (38 sts rem)

Work 1 WS row.

Place sts on holder.

Size 55.6” Only:

Short-row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 2 & following WS rows: Work to end.

Short-row 3 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 5 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 7 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 9 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 11 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 13 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 15 (RS): Work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 17 (RS): Work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 19 (RS): K to end of row, knitting tog the “shadow” sts. (42 sts rem)

Work 1 WS row.

Place sts on holder.

Size 59.8” Only:

Short-row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 2 & following WS rows: Work to end.

Short-row 3 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 5 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 5 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 7 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 9 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 11 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 13 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 15 (RS): Work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 17 (RS): Work to last 4 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 19 (RS): Work to last 3 sts before marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 21(RS): K to end of row, knitting tog the “shadow” sts. (45 sts rem)

Work 1 WS row.

Place sts on holder.

All Sizes:

Right Front

Return the 52 (55, 59, 63, 66) held sts onto needle.

Dec Row (RS): DS, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (1 st decreased)

Next Row (WS): Work to last 2 sts, DS.

Rep last 2 rows 13 more times. (38 (41, 45, 49, 52) sts rem)

Dec Row (RS): DS, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (37 (40, 44, 48, 51) sts rem)

Cont decreasing for armhole shaping and shape neck with short-rows as follows:

Shape neck:

Size 43.4” Only:

Short Row 1 (WS): Work to last 5 sts, MPLL & turn.

Short Row 2 & following RS rows: Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (1 st decreased)

Short-row 3 (WS): Work to last 5 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 5 (WS): Work to last 5 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 7 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 9 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 11 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 13 (WS): P to end of row, purling tog the “shadow” sts. (31 sts rem)

Place sts on holder.

Size 47.6” Only:

Short-row 1 (WS): Work to last 5 sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-rows 2, 4, 6, 8 & 10 (RS): Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (1 st decreased)

Short-row 3 (WS): Work to last 5 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 5 (WS): Work to last 5 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 7 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 9 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 11 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 12 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 13 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 14 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 15 (WS): P to end of row, purling together the “shadow” sts. (35 sts rem)

Place sts on holder.

Size 51.6” Only:

Short-row 1 (WS): Work to last 5 sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 & 12 (RS): Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (1 st decreased)

Short-row 3 (WS): Work to last 5 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 5 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 7 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 9 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 11 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 13 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 14 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 15 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 16 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 17 (WS): P to end of row, purling together the “shadow” sts. (38 sts rem)

Place sts on holder.

Size 55.6” Only:

Short-row 1 (WS): Work to last 5 sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 & 12 (RS): Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (1 st decreased)

Short-row 3 (WS): Work to last 5 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 5 (WS): Work to last 5 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 7 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 9 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 11 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 13 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 14 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 15 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 16 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 17 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 18 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 19 (WS): P to end of row, purling together the “shadow” sts. (42 sts rem)

Place sts on holder.

Size 59.8” Only:

Short-row 1 (WS): Work to last 5 sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 & 12 (RS): Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (1 st decreased)

Short-row 3 (WS): Work to last 5 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 5 (WS): Work to last 5 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 7 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 9 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 11 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 13 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 14 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 15 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 16 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 17 (WS): Work to last 4 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 18 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 19 (WS): Work to last 3 sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 20 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 21 (WS): P to end of row, purling together the “shadow” sts. (45 sts rem)

Place sts on holder.

Right Sleeve

With MC, CO 112 (114, 116, 117, 120) sts.

Knit 2 rows.

Next Row (RS): K1, *k2tog, yo, rep from * to last st, k1.

Next Row (WS): Knit.

Change to St st.

Work 2 rows and then beg with Colorwork chart.

AT THE SAME TIME, on Row 13 of chart, dec 1 st at each end as follows:

Dec Row (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Rep Dec Row every 16th row 3 more times and then every 14th row 3 times. (98 (100, 102, 103, 106) sts rem)

Cont even until piece measures 17″, finishing with a WS row.

Shape armhole:

BO 3 (6, 7, 9, 11) sts at the beg of next 2 rows, 3 sts at the beg of following 2 rows, 2 sts at the beg of following 2 rows. (82 (78, 78, 75, 74) sts rem)

Dec Row (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Rep Dec Row every 4 (4, 4, 6, 6)th row 3 (7, 8, 1, 6) more times, then every 2nd (2nd, 2nd, 4th, 2nd) row 12 (5, 3, 8, 1) times. (50 (52, 54, 55, 58) sts rem) *

Work 2 (2, 4, 4, 4) rows even.

Shape sleeve top:

Short-row 1 (WS): Work to last 13 (13, 14, 14, 15) sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-rows 2, 4 & 6 (RS): Work to end.

Short-row 3 (WS): Work to last 12 (13, 13, 13, 14) sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 5 (WS): Work to last 12 (13, 13, 14, 14) sts before the marked “shadow” sts, MPLL, turn.

Short-row 7 (WS): P to end of row, purling tog the “shadow” sts. (50 (52, 54, 55, 58) sts)

Place sts on holder.

Left Sleeve

Work as for Right Sleeve to *.

Work 1 (1, 3, 3, 3) row(s) even.

Shape sleeve top:

Short-row 1 (RS): Work to last 13 (13, 14, 14, 15) sts, KRL, turn.

Short-rows 2, 4 & 6 (WS): Work to end.

Short-row 3 (RS): Work to last 12 (13, 13, 13, 14) sts before the marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 5 (RS): Work to last 12 (13, 13, 14, 14) sts before the marked “shadow” sts, KRL, turn.

Short-row 7 (RS): K to end of row, knitting tog the “shadow” sts. (50 (52, 54, 55, 58) sts)

Work 1 WS row.

Place sts on holder.

Finishing

Block all pieces to finished measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew shoulders.

With RS facing, return to needle 31 (35, 38, 42, 45) held right front sts, 50 (52, 54, 55, 58) held right sleeve sts, 62 (70, 76, 84, 90) held back neck sts, 50 (52, 54, 55, 58) held left sleeve sts, and 31 (35, 38, 42, 45) held left front sts. (224 (244, 260, 278, 296) sts)

Next Row (RS): With MC, DS, k28 (32, 35, 39, 42), ktog last st of right front with first st of right sleeve, k48 (50, 52, 53, 56), ktog last st of right sleeve with first st of back neck, k60 (68, 74, 82, 88), ktog last st of back neck with first st of left sleeve, k48 (50, 52, 53, 56), ktog last st of left sleeve with first st of front neck. k28 (32, 35, 39, 42), DS. (220 (240, 256, 274, 292) sts rem)

Next Row (WS): DS, k to last 2 sts, dec 1 st, DS. (219 (239, 255, 273, 291) sts rem)

Next Row (RS): DS, *k2tog, yo, rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, DS.

Next Row (WS): DS, k to last 2 sts, DS.

BO all sts.

Neck Tie

Cut 4 strands of MC, each approx. 3 meters long. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the strands double so that they twine. Tie a knot at each end. Weave tie through the eyelet edging of neck.

Cuff Tie (make 2):

Cut 4 strands of MC, each approx. 1.8 meters long. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the strands double so that they twine. Tie a knot in each end. Weave tie through the eyelet edging of cuff.

Sew side and sleeve seams with the mattress stitch.

Weave in ends.

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