Vinter, Norwegain for winter, is the most wonderful time of the year. You loved the original Norwegian Snowflake Stocking so much, we gave it an update — now in green! Try your hand at this stocking for a taste of traditional Norwegian motifs. Knit from the top down, with traditional Norwegian “lice” stitches, this timeless stocking will look perfect above the fireplace.
Time: Weekend Project
Skill Level: Intermediate
Size: 12.5” circumference x 19” long.
Gauge: 24 sts x 25 rows = 4” (10cm) after blocking. The gauge is not critical in this project, but you will want a fairly tight, smooth fabric. If you knit very loosely, try a smaller needle size. Sitch gauge for both stockinette and stranded knitting need to be close to the same. If your gauges are quite different, change needles sizes as needed to adjust.
Yarn: Cascade 220 Sport (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 164 yards [150 meters]/50 grams): #9672 Ultramarine Green (MC, 2 skeins), #8505 White (CC,1 skein).
Needles: US size 5 (3.75mm) 16” (40cm) circular and double pointed needles.
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker.
CC – Contrast Color
MC – Main Color
m1 – make one stitch by picking up bar between sts from front with left needle, knit into the back, twisting the bar
sl1kw – slip one stitch as if to knit
sl1pw – slip one stitch as if to purl
ssk – slip two stitches one at a time as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these stitches and knit them together
This pattern is worked in the round from the top down.
When working the charts, some of the changes from one color to the other will be long. To keep the floats on the inside from catching on your stocking stuffers you can twist or catch your yarns every 4-5 stitches if you wish. Or try ladder-back jacquard.
Keep the floats loose so they don’t bunch up the stitching, making the stocking tight.
You may also line this stocking if you like, using new fabric or even an old T-shirt. A knit is nice because of the stretch. Lay the stocking as flat as you can over your fabric. Trace around it and cut 2 layers of fabric. Using a 1/4” seam, sew fabric pieces with right sides together. Leave top edge open. Turn top edge down to match bottom edge of hem. Insert into stocking with wrong sides of fabric facing inside of stocking. Whip stitch fold of lining edge to the bottom edge of the hem.
With 16” circular needle and CC, CO 72 sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker to indicate beginning of round, slipping marker as you come to it in subsequent rounds.
Rnds 1 – 7: Knit.
Rnd 8 (Picot): *Yo, k2tog; repeat from * around.
Rnds 9 – 16: With MC, knit 8 rnds.
Rnd 17 (Attach Hem): Weave in ends where color change is made in hem. Fold work along picot with wrong sides together. With CC, join hem to working round by knitting a stitch from needle and a stitch from the CO edge together as one stitch. Continue in this manner around until all live stitches have been worked with their corresponding CO stitch.
Rnd 18: Purl. (Garter ridge formed.)
Rnds 19-35: With both colors, work Chart A, Rounds 1-12, then work Rnds 1-5 again.
Rnds 36-68: Work Chart B, Rounds 1-33.
Rnds 58-70: Work Chart A, Rounds 7-12, then Rounds 1-8 once more. Break CC.
Note: Keep marker in place and slip as you come to it.
Row 1 (RS): Using MC only, k18, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1pw, p35, turn. (36 stitches are working. The other 36 are resting.)
Rows 3-14: Knit every RS row, turn and purl all WS rows, slipping first stitch knitwise on knit rows and purlwise on purl rows.
Row 1: Sl1kw, k20, ssk, k1, turn. (There will be 12 unworked stitches remaining on the left needle.)
Row 2: Sl1pw, p7, p2tog, p1, turn. (12 stitches will remain as before.)
Row 3: Sl1kw, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1pw, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5: Sl1kw, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6: Sl1pw, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7: Sl1kw, k12, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8: Sl1pw, p13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9: Sl1kw, k14, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10: Sl1pw, p15, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 11: Sl1kw, k16, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 12: Sl1pw, p17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 13: Sl1kw, k18, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 14: Sl1pw, p19, p2tog, p1, turn. (22 sts)
Note: To pick up stitches along the side of the heel flap, make sure you are placing your needle under both loops of the slipped stitches, then wrap as if to knit and pull the new stitch through.
Return to working in the round.
Rnd 1 (pick up rnd): With RS facing and MC, k22 sts across heel, pick up 7 sts in slipped st edge along side of heel flap, m1 before instep sts, k36, m1, pick up 7 sts in slipped st edge, k11 to marker. (74 sts on needle)
Rnd 2 (decrease rnd): With MC, k17, k2tog, k36, ssk, k17. (72 sts)
Rnds 3-27: Adding in CC as needed, work Chart A, Rnds 10-12 once, Rnds 1-12 once, then Rnds 1–10 once more.
Rnd 28: With CC, knit around.
Rnd 29: Purl.
Rnds 30-38: Work Chart C, Rnds 1-9 once.
Rnd 39: With CC, knit around.
Rnd 40: Purl
Rnds 41-42: With MC, knit around.
Note: Change to double pointed needles when circle gets too small for the 16” circular.
Rnd 1: *K7, k2tog; repeat from * around. (64sts)
Rnds 2 – 5: Knit. (4 rnds worked)
Rnd 6: *K6, k2tog; repeat from * around. (56sts)
Rnds 7 – 9: Knit. (3 rnds worked)
Rnd 10: *K5, k2tog; repeat from * around. (48sts)
Rnds 11 – 12: Knit. (2 rnds worked)
Rnd 13: *K4, k2tog; repeat from * around. (40sts)
Rnd 14: Knit.
Rnd 15: *K3, k2tog; repeat from * around. (32sts)
Rnd 16: Knit.
Rnd 17: *K2, k2tog; repeat from * around. (24sts)
Rnd 18: *K1, k2tog; repeat from * around. (16sts)
Rnd 19: *K2tog; repeat from * around. (8sts)
Cut yarn leaving a tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread yarn through stitches and pull tight.
Cut yarn leaving a tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in all ends.
Make an I-cord about 6 inches long or braid or twist several strands together and attach securely to inside of hem at top of stocking. To make I-cord: With dpn, CO 4 stitches. *Without turning the needle, slide stitches to right needle tip, pull yarn around back, and knit the sts as usual; repeat from * for 6 inches or desired length.